The Brunello

by Jon Fiume
December 16, 2005

After returning this month from a beautiful trip to Tuscany, I cannot help but write about my personal wine favorite, the robust Brunello. This deep, dark, unique Sangiovese red wine is something not to be missed if you are fortunate enough to visit the Montalcino region of Tuscany or spot it on a wine list.

Many of you may have not heard about the famous Brunello, but this wine has an unique history in how it came to be. Developed over 150 years ago, the Brunello is a clone of the Sangiovese grape known as Sangiovese Grosso. Its developer Clemente Santi planted the vines on his family estate known as Il Greppo in the mid 1800's. The grape itself has been described as hearty, powerful, and concentrated. However, as is the case for many fine wines, its strengths can also be attributed to the Tuscan climate, soil conditions, and the altitude of the Montalcino region. However, it was not until the 1960's and increased production that Brunello started to attract publicity outside of the Montalcino region. To further recognize quality and prestige, in 1980 Italy established the DOCG requirements for Brunello. DOCG (Denominazione Di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is Italy's stamp of approval that a wine and the process of making that wine meet stringent requirements which are guaranteed. The following is a partial description of such requirements:

- Production area: the communal territory of Montalcino
- Variety: Sangiovese (named "Brunello" in Montalcino)
- Yield of wine from grapes: 68%
- Obligatory ageing in wood: 2 years in oak casks
- Obligatory ageing in bottles: 4 months (6 months for the reserve)
- Color: intense ruby red, tending to garnet with ageing
- Odor: characteristic and intense perfume
- Flavor: dry, warm, a bit tannic, robust and harmonic
- Minimum alcohol grade: 12.5% by volume
- Bottling: must take place in the production area
- Available for sale: 5 years after the harvest year (6 years for the reserve)
- Packaging: Brunello di Montalcino can only be bottled in Bordeaux type bottles

So what makes a Brunello so pleasing to the senses? It begins with the color that is a deep ruby red, brilliant, and consistent. The aroma, depending on the age (Brunellos, depending on the vintage, can withstand lengthy ageing, from 10-30 years) can be one that is deep, complex, earthy and or woodsy with fruity tones. The full-bodied, velvety taste lies on the dry side, drawing out the fruit, but with great strength and robustness that, depending on the producer, brings other flavors to the palate, such as chocolate, licorice, vanilla, spices, and oak.

Brunello is one wine that should not be consumed until it has aged appropriately. It should be decanted prior to consumption, in order to fully enjoy its attributes. Treat yourself to a special wine during this time of the year and try a Brunello. You will not be disappointed! Ciao!

A favorite Brunello to try...

Castello Banfi, 1999, Brunello di Montalcino, approximately $49.00.
1999 was a good year for Brunellos and this particular wine is at an attractive enough price to enjoy the experience with minimal risk. This wine is full-bodied with a mild tannin structure. The nose should pick up fruit and spice and the finish should be long. If you really want to dive in to the Brunello world, move up to a Reserve.