Summertime Chardonnays

by Jon Fiume
June 23, 2006

The summer is here and what better way to cool off than by enjoying some classic chardonnay. It is the star of the white wine world and has become one of the most popular wines of California. For many, besides white zinfandel, it is the only other white wine that they know. In addition to oak, chardonnays offer tastes of butter, green apple, pear, lemon, butterscotch, pineapple, and even toast, to mention a few. They can be smooth, light bodied, and in some cases tart and acidic.

Choosing a chardonnay can be tricky however. With the tremendous number available on the store shelves today, the choices can be overwhelming, and for that matter, so can the tastes. The taste of oak is often recognized as a character trait of a chardonnay. In fact, it is the fermentation and aging in the oak barrel that can make or break a chardonnay. The purpose of the oak is to bring out the character of the grape and therefore the flavor profile, a very delicate process. If the fermentation and aging process is too long there is an increased saturation of oak which can ruin the essence of the wine by masking its' character profile and thus creating a heavy and oily wine. Ever taste an over-oaked chardonnay? The oak is all that you taste forcing you to consider avoiding this entire class of wine completely. However, there is hope! Increasingly popular are no-oak chardonnays. These delightful wines are fermented in stainless steel and yield a phenomenal fruit profile. They are actually fun to drink because each one offers a unique experience allowing you to pinpoint the individual flavors. They offer a little more of an experience than just saying "I taste oak." Here are a few of my chardonnay choices this month. Enjoy the taste, enjoy the summer! Salute!

Featured wines of the month:

Hess Select, 2004 Chardonnay. Around $10.00.

From the heart of Napa comes a best of both worlds chardonnay. It has been fermented in both oak and stainless steel offering that oak taste that is not overdone revealing an abundance of fruit flavors. Enjoy the experience of pineapple, lemon, pear, green apple, and peach. See which ones you can taste!

Plantagenet Omrah, 2003 Unoaked Chardonnay, around $16.00.

A no-oak chardonnay from down under. Crisp, clean, and easy to drink, this chardonnay offers a unique flavor profile of grapefruit, melon, and peach. I find it to be smooth and not as complex as some other oak frees, but well worth the experience.