That's Amarone!

by Jon Fiume
April 4, 2006

Every once in a while, I like to write about wines that are not the norm - ones that may be difficult to find on a restaurant wine list, and may be unfamiliar because of the grape, technique or the wine region. At times these wines, like many wines, can come with a price because of their uniqueness. However, some are quite affordable, and because of this, they are worth the risk and subsequently, worth the fun.

This month's find is a sweet gem that I discovered with my friends in an adorable enoteca called Pitti Gola e Cantina. This wine bar is located not far from Florence's Ponte Vecchio and Pitti Palace, both well known cultural sites. Like any true enoteca, wines were stacked on three walls, from floor to ceiling. It was a quaint little space, having six or so tables for couples and perhaps the same number of bar stools. Breadsticks, olives, and simple olive oil-toasted bread accompanied the fabulous wines that were being served. The wine menu was divided into categories that included aperitivi (aperitifs), vini bianchi (white wines), vini dolci (sweet wines), vini rossi (red wines), grappa (of course!), and Super Tuscans, the famous Chianti blend. Being a lover of Florence, and for that matter Tuscany itself, I hit the red wine list with a nice glass of Brunello, renowned in the area. Sitting at the bar in an enoteca however, you find yourself doing the expected: tasting each other's wine, talking about what you have just tasted, and, tasting each other's wine again. You then find yourself inquiring about what should be tried next. The best person you discover to ask - especially at an Italian wine bar - is the one doing the pouring. And in this case, she was quite knowledgeable and led me to a very unique wine called Amarone.

Amarone, officially known as Amarone della Valpolicella, comes from the Verona region of Italy. The wine is Italy's fourth top selling wine, after Chianti, Asti, and Soave. The wine presents itself as dry, fruity, and with adequate body. Some Amarones may show a slight sweetness that plays off of the dryness... sort of just a quick teaser that tells you that you truly taste something unique. This was definitely the case that evening at the Pitta Gola, when I realized that Amarone could serve as the transition wine to the dessert wine during a long dinner party. However watch out, this wine's unique manufacturing process yields a higher alcohol level - 15% to be exact. The grapes, which consist of Covina Veronese, Molinara, and Rodolina varieties, are specially dried on mats or bamboo racks for months, yielding more flavors as well as alcohol. Prices for Amarone can be seen from $40.00 and up. However, if you want to try a less expensive "offspring" version of Amarone, consider Ripasso. Ripasso is a by-product, using the Amarone skins combined with the grape Valpolicella.

Amarone can be consumed young, but it also ages very well, with an average aging of 10 years. Explore and enjoy the unique.

Featured wine of the month:

Masi, 2001 Costasera Amarone Classico $43.99 approximately.

Full bodied and fruity, this wine is worth the euros or the dollars spent! Take the time with it, and let it age, you will appreciate the flavor profile even more.